Mentioned in literary history, it also appears in the pages of The Betrothed, when Renzo gave the lawyer Azzeccagarbugli four capons, considered a true delicacy of the time. The number four returns to Milan, where it seems that wealthier families traditionally raised four capons: one for St. Ambrose, one at Christmas, another on New Year’s Eve, and finally the last for Epiphany. The capon was raised in the courtyard, while today it is purchased, but this tasty tradition persists, bringing the vibrant aroma of festive days to the table.
The stuffed capon, a classic dish to serve during the festivities. Whether stuffed or baked, the Capón plays a prominent role on Spanish and European tables.
The history of this noble and ancient creature begins far back in time: it seems that as early as the 7th century BC, inhabitants of the island of Delos practiced turning roosters into capons. Hence the term “deliacus gallinario,” referring to those responsible for castrating the rooster; it also appears in the writings of Cicero and Pliny.
The term "capón," on the other hand, derives (through Latin capo, -onis) from the Greek verb "kopto," meaning "to cut," referring to the castration of the animal. This treatment makes the meat much more flavorful and tender than that of a regular chicken, especially suitable for preparing delicious dishes.
And if in ancient Rome these birds were raised to avoid the law banning chickens from being kept at home, it was during the Renaissance that the capon, in culinary terms, enjoyed its golden age; during grand banquets, these humble animals were presented covered with thin sheets of precious metal. It was considered a rare and luxurious food, enjoyed on special occasions; in fact, they were often found on the tables of the great Renaissance courts, appreciated also for the decorative value of their plumage, alongside peacocks.
Nevertheless, the ancients paid close attention to food quality and did not neglect this aspect at all. By then, the rooster was also “hooded” for gastronomic reasons, especially because as the rooster aged, it became tough and less tasty; the capon, conversely, could even improve in quality, at least up to 15 months of age.
For centuries, both middle-upper-class families and more modest households, where it was customary to cook a capon at Christmas, often bought it with considerable sacrifices. In other cases, it was a prestigious gift, which, due to its delicacy, was often offered by humble people to those of higher ranks to curry favor and seek protection.
The first person to precisely define the castration procedure was a woman, Millet-Robinet, in 1856, who indicated 4 to 5 months as the appropriate age for the operation, which was then performed very primitively on the animal while fasting.
In short, for the stuffed capon, you will need ground veal, sausages, offal, Venetian surprise (a traditional filling), stale bread, and milk. Don’t forget the spices: pepper, nutmeg, rosemary, garlic, sage, parsley, and thyme will make the mixture fragrant. Once the ingredients are mixed and the dough prepared, stuff the capon and close the opening with a needle and thread. Brush the capon with oil and wrap it with aluminum foil. Preheat the oven, then let the capon cook slowly at 180°C.
As side dishes, you can prepare a fresh mixed salad, roasted potatoes seasoned with rosemary, or cooked vegetables. The extra touch? Sauces: green with parsley or with celery, white with spicy horseradish, or prepared with walnuts. Present the capon at the center of the table, decorated with pomegranate seeds, a symbol of fertility and good wishes for the New Year. If you prefer an alternative to meat, you can opt for a chestnut stuffing: a delicacy that will satisfy all palates.
