In the Basque Country, in the 18th century, it was customary to gather villagers in the square to celebrate festive days with a large grill, roasting the meat of old cows that for many years had been members of the family.
It was common to raise cattle with a very specific activity: females were dedicated to giving birth and producing milk. Usually, a farmer had one or two breeding cows and other dairy cows. Among the males, one was the stud and the others were destined for field work.
When these animals reached old age and their productivity decreased, they continued to be cared for diligently for about a year or more. During this time, these animals gained weight because they had little activity and were well-fed; during winter, they were given homemade feed.
After this period, they were slaughtered, and the loins and t-bone steaks (txuletón) were shared at communal festivities, roasting them over enormous rotisseries. As you can see, this feast held social and gastronomic value, involving caring for, preparing, roasting, and sharing the old, fat cow.
From those times, rotisserie grilling started to become popular in nearby towns; the first "txuleteros" appeared in the Basque Country. When it was livestock market days, it was common to see those rotisseries with large t-bone steaks over the embers, and some people devoured big pieces, competing to see who ate the most.
